Endangered Species

Thursday, Rex and I left Glacier National Park after spending two weeks camped near its borders. We've planned several posts about our experiences in and around this park; I will begin with some thoughts about our last trek: Grinnell Glacier.

The Grinnell Glacier hike comes advertised as one of the best in the park. As our photos attest, the trail lives up to its billing. But the hike’s popularity is also its downfall: many, many, many people hike this trail. But if you are in the right frame of mind, sharing the way can be a happy part of the experience. We met several interesting people, including Vic the microelectronics engineer as well as pastors Robin and Janet.

Mount Gould (highest point, center) from the top of Lake Josephine; Salamander Glacier is on the right

But the true bittersweet of the Grinnell Glacier hike is its namesake. Like all glaciers in the park, Grinnell will soon be gone, probably by 2030 if not sooner. In 1850, there were more than 250 glaciers in the immediate vicinity. There are now 25, and they are only poor shadows of their former selves. Compare, for example, this 1910 photo of Grinnell Glacier with mine below.

Early view of Grinnell Glacier from the trail

As most hikers do, apparently, we took the tour boat to the top of Lake Josephine, eliminating the first and last two miles of walking.* The hike quickly leaves the lake via several steep switchbacks then relaxes into a more reasonable grade, affording clear views up and down the valley for the trail’s entire length. Grinnell Lake looks particularly striking with its blue-green hue, made so by sunlight refracting through microscopic particles of glacial flour—which is rock pulverized by the glacier then washed into the lake**

Lake Josephine (left) and Grinnell Lake (right)

The hike culminates with a strenuous half-mile climb over the highest terrace in the valley, revealing the glacier. Close up, it is arresting, but as one observes the formation more carefully, its stresses become apparent. The glacier looks like a large but nevertheless melting pile of snow. Grinnell or some predecessor must have pushed away millions of tons of rock to make the u-shaped glacial valley below, but in its present state, that is very had to imagine.

Grinnell Glacier below Mount Gould

Panorama of Grinnell Glacier and its melt pond

I take no comfort in having seen this beautiful bulldozer before it disappears, nor do I want to hear any ridiculous talk about how I played a role in its demise by travelling to see it. Of course I did, and so do you each time you participate in the carbon-based economy, which is all the time. There would be no life as we know it—good or bad—without fossil fuels. While some benefit more from the carbon economy than do others, there is no one in particular to blame because the problem is systemic. We must therefore change our system to slow climate change. That’s hard work—especially when the people who benefit the most directly and immediately from fossil fuels speak the loudest and the rest of us pretend that there isn’t a problem.

To make any meaningful difference as individuals, we can adjust those daily activities that make the greatest contributions to carbon output. These activities include:

• how we get to work;
• how we heat and cool our homes; and
• how we get our food.

Anything that decreases the amount of fossil fuels we consume to do these the things will also reduce our personal carbon footprint. But changing our system requires concreted public efforts, both national and global. Until the United States gets serious, international agreements such as Copenhagen Accords will be impotent. And the United States will not get serious until enough citizens speak out.

To end on a happier note, the bird highlight of the hike was an American dipper—only the second one I have ever seen. 

*I regret this choice. If you plan to do this hike, please also see my thoughts under a later post, “Glacier National Park Tips.”

**This I learned from the very knowledgeable park ranger who led a group to the glacier.